Kurumdy Mountain is a mountain in the

Pamir Mountains The Pamir Mountains are a mountain range between Central Asia and Pakistan. It is located at a junction with other notable mountains, namely the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, Hindu Kush and the Himalaya mountain ranges. They are among the world ...

Central Asia Central Asia, also known as Middle Asia, is a subregion, region of Asia that stretches from the Caspian Sea in the west to western China and Mongolia in the east, and from Afghanistan and Iran in the south to Russia in the north. It includes t ...

, in the eastern section of the

Trans-Alay Range russian: Заалайский хребет , etymology = , photo = Alai Valley 1.jpg , photo_caption = Trans-Alay Range and Alay Valley , photo_size = 250 , country = Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan , state = , region = Osh Province, Gorno-Badaksh ...

. Kurumdy (Kurumdy I summit) has an elevation of above sea level and sits on the international border between

Kyrgyzstan Kyrgyzstan,, pronounced or the Kyrgyz Republic, is a landlocked country in Central Asia. Kyrgyzstan is bordered by Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the west, Tajikistan to the south, and the People's Republic of China to the east. ...

and

China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. It is the world's most populous country, with a population exceeding 1.4 billion, slightly ahead of India. China spans the equivalent of five time zones and ...

Location

Kurumdy is located in the eastern part of the

in the

. It is 22 km east of the

Kyzyl-Art Pass Kyzylart Pass (russian: Кызыл-Арт; ky, Кызыл-Арт ашуусу) is a mountain pass and border crossing in the Trans-Alay Range on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The highest point is 4,280 m (14,042 ft). The border c ...

. On the northern side flows the East Kyzilsy Glacier with a length of 3,7 km and an area of 69,4 km².Sowjet. Enzyklopedia (russ.): Курумды
/ref> The Kurumdy Glacier with and is located on the south side and flows to the west. Since territorial changes in 2011 it is the three state summit between

and

Tajikistan Tajikistan (, ; tg, Тоҷикистон, Tojikiston; russian: Таджикистан, Tadzhikistan), officially the Republic of Tajikistan ( tg, Ҷумҳурии Тоҷикистон, Jumhurii Tojikiston), is a landlocked country in Centr ...

and

Climbing history

There is some uncertainty concerning the first ascent. An ascent by E. Timashev and party from the south apparently reached the main summit in 1932. However, other sources surmise this party only made it to Kurumdu West (6154 m). On October 1, 2001, Michael Mihajlov and Vitaliy Akimov reached the Kurumdy I summit by climbing a major north ridge. This would be the first ascent if the 1932 ascent was only to Kurumdu West. The first traverse (East-West, 15 days) was accomplished in summer 2015 by the Austrians Markus Gschwendt and Katharina Pfnaisl. This was the second ascent of the main summit (6614 m, 5 August 2015). Further they traversed some 6000 m peaks of which at least two peaks were unclimbed at this time. For the ascent they used a very steep slope east oft the Kurumdy east summits (6384 m, Peak Kathi 6259 m). The descent was done by crossing the west summits (6554 m, 6283 m) and then following a north ridge to Golova Orla 5440 m from where they reached the Basecamp (3770 m)

Information for visitors

For the Area is a border-area-permit necessary (info from 2015) Approach from the north,

: Airport in

Osh Osh (Kyrgyz: Ош, romanised Osh; uz, O‘sh/Ўш) is the second-largest city in Kyrgyzstan, located in the Fergana Valley in the south of the country and often referred to as the "capital of the south". It is the oldest city in the country (e ...

, Taxi to Sari Tash, with Horses to the basecamp on the northern side of the East Kyzilsy Glacier at 3770 m. Water quality can be a problem. Bring a water filter system. There is no easy line to the summit. Success depends much on snow conditions and weather.

References

{{Reflist, refs= {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib , author = Kleslo, Michal , year = 2009 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200924000/Asia-Kyrgyzstan-Pamir-Zaalayskiy-Range-Kurumdy-East-North-Rib , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live NOTE: While Klesno is the author, the 1932 claim is contained within an editor's note. {{cite journal , journal = American Alpine Journal , publisher = American Alpine Club , title = Traverse of Kurumdy and Unclimbed Satellite Peaks , author = Gschwendt, Markus , year = 2016 , url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213636/Traverse-of-Kurumdy-and-Unclimbed-Satellite-Peaks , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live {{cite journal , journal = Alpine Journal , publisher = Alpine Club , title = Six and Seventhousanders of the TIen Shan and the Pamirs , page = 126 , author1 = Gippenreiter, Yevgeniy , author2 = Shataev, Vladimir , url = http://alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20122-130%20Gippenreiter%20USSR.pdf , access-date = 15 April 2019 , url-status = live {{cite peakbagger , pid=13164 , name=Gora Kurumdy, Tajikistan, accessdate=15 April 2019 Mountains of Kyrgyzstan Mountains of Tajikistan International mountains of Asia Kyrgyzstan–Tajikistan border Six-thousanders of the Pamir

Location

Climbing history

Information for visitors

See also

References